Back in Puglia @ Serragambetta!

From now on I will always associate geraniums with Puglia, Italy!

Ciao amici!

I'm back in Puglia!  I couldn't resist spending some more time down here in this very special region.  After a wonderful week in Roma, I took the train back down to Bari (regional train with delays, 7.5 hours...) and then hopped on a local train to Castellana Grotte to meet my friend Erica at the agritourismo she was helping out at...  Serragambetta, a true Puglian oasis.  

http://www.serragambetta.it/  Check it out & plan your next vacay!

Here I met a bunch of interesting international guests, enjoyed some sublime food & spent some quality time doing pedicures by the pool.  Not too bad!  One day we used bikes to ride down the hill to the coastal town of Monopoli where we explored the market, buying nectarines, huge figs called fiorini and nailpolish.  :)  The ride was mostly downhill through the countryside, simply gorgeous!  It was roasting hot & after milling about the sweaty market we popped our bikes on the train to the next town, Polignano a Mare to visit... the beach!  But first, we had to stop in at a bar Erica had heard had a good coffee.  The "caffe speciale" consisted of a bit of lemon rind, espresso poured over this, plus a spoonful of panna (whipped cream) and a bit of amaretto.  Belissima!  This was one of the best coffees I have EVER tasted!  I chose a granita di caffe, shaved ice flavored with espresso mixed with panna...  also buonissima!

Here is a taste of my recent eating adventures :)

Tutti al tavolo!  I've always wanted to sit at a big table outside in Italy having amazing food with interesting company!

the scene in the courtyard @ Serragambeta

prepping fried zucchini flowers stuffed with cheese & capers... YUM!!!

they make al their own after dinner digestifs including:  limoncello, caffe, mirto (myrtle), cherry (made with the pits), canela (cinnamon), nespolino, alloro (bay leaf) and I am probably forgetting some.  Wow!

Enjoying some cherries, mirto & biscotti.  (sorry Washington state but, these Italian cherries are the best I have ever eaten.)

nespole, cherries & fave soaking for tonight's meal

the huge & tasty figs!

the beach @ Monopoli

gorgeous Polignano a Mare

tres chic in bike helmet

 After our refreshments I was dying to jump in that ocean.  At the beach you are able to swim way out to look back on the cliffs and caves along the shore, it was beautiful.  Many youths were doing some intense cliff jumping which we chickened out on.  Soon enough it was time to ride back.  This was one of the more difficult bike rides of my life!  It was probably ninety plus degrees in the strong afternoon sun with a nice, hot headwind.  With some sections being steeper than others it was all uphill and without a lot of fancy gears, this was a challenge!  Once I had to stop just to stand in the shade for a few minutes to breathe and try not to die.  When we arrived back I went directly to the pool to lower my core temp.

where we swam...  who wants to come??  

 And then... more food!

That evening we were able to reward ourselves for our efforts with a true feast.  The first course was a typical dish, impiadina (?) blended fava beans, chickpeas & bread (a bit pesante- heavy), topped with sauteed peppers and tomatoes, second course of spaghetti with capers & tomatoes and... to top it all of a third course of cheese.  Wine accompanied all of this.  And, for dessert a homemade tart made with cherry & a local berry, the gelsi.  Not a light meal, that's for sure.  Ah, it was such a treat to stay @ Serragambeta for many reasons but...  the food, oh the food.  Thank goodness I only stayed 2 days or I'd be busting out of all my clothes, I simply cannot resist good food.

second course, a simple yet fabulous spaghetti with tomato, capers & olive oil.  

here was our third course....  about 8 different types of  cheese were served!

Erica, who claims to love cheese more than chocolate was really excited about this.  Posing here with the brilliant cook, Angela.

my plate.  HA!  remember when I was vegan???   while in Italy, it may be required to enjoy the formaggio!

my favorite liquor, the nespolino!  made by soaking the seeds of nespole in alcohol.  tastes similar to amaretto but, more delicious!

i do love these nespole, this is an entire BUCKET of them!!  like paradise...

 The next day we tested our bicycling stamina again riding to the largest cave system in Puglia, the grotte di Castellana.  It was huge, the best cave I've ever been in!  We took a 2 hour long tour that ended in the fantastic grotta bianca (white cave) completely filled with crystalline white stalagtites, stalacmites, columns and curtain formations.  Deep within the cave it was about 98% percent humidity & quite cool.  It was a nice break from the heat outside & a very memorable cave!  In one spot they had built an ampitheater of seats; they sometimes show horror films down there.  Can you imagine seeing a horror flick in a cave??  What a fabulous idea.  Thanks for such a great time, Erica!

inside the grotte de castellana, it is HUGE!

the seeds of the nespole are being prepped to make more of the tasty nespolino

the most beautiful basil i've ever seen, the smell was heavenly

prepping for that night's meal... pesto!  i left before dinner but seriously thought twice about staying to enjoy the deliciousness!

Erica & Angela, two true kitchen goddesses :)

Yesterday I caught the train to the gorgeous hilltop city of Ostuni where I spent a couple or hours walking around the historical center marvelling at the beauty.  Then, my new WOOFing farm hosts came to swoop me up & take me to their awesome masseria in the country where I am staying in a trullo with a lovely British lady.  They are building a huge, new, open air dance/yoga studio here & we hope the floor will be finished before I leave because they'd like me to inaugerate the place by teaching a yoga class.  How cool!  Today I spent the majority of my time picking wild capers.   

Here is where I am now:  http://www.casinasettarte.org/wordpress/?lang=en  my hosts lead classes & workshops in contact improv dance & tai chi.  Perfect!

Photos of this next time!  I've been having FUN!  But,  am hoping to curb my overeating this week.  More soon! xx